setting scenarios – ”like rock“ / for projects on rock

Unfortunately still a widespread concept that tends to not make you a better climber  in the long run.

Plastic isn‘t rock, you should rather train such aspects that make you a better climber overall. An example are positive holds that even hard rock problems have. Positivity is an indication of how easy it is to maintain contact with a hold. The more outward pull the hold can sustain, the more positive it is deemed. And there lies the problem since with enough finger power you can hold onto even a small positive hold though your body position is off!

For your technique it is better to train on flat surfaces that come into the wall at a 90 degree angle. Greater angles than 90 degrees are considered slopey and force you to move more precisely. Theme boulders, for example ”only pinches“ or ”my weaknesses“. Main training aspect for competition climbers. The principle of bouldering is preserved.

Setting challenges

setting something that will force quality of movement as a criteria for success. For example ”statically impossible“ or ”dynamically impossible“. Like above, keyword being”working on my weaknesses“. Setting parcours  like in Fontainebleau a homogeneous demand regarding the difficulty but varied with respect to the movements. Is now being offered by many bouldering gyms.

Shaping your own two square meters of bouldering space attractively

Don‘t use smaller handholds but smaller footholds. Try using only very small footholds with Spax-screws or even just the structures of the wall. Or a handhold is a foothold (also known as tracking). You may use only footholds that are handholds at the same time. Both are very good ways for developing body tension. Sit-starts, where hands and feet are already in position when the bottom leaves the ground as the last body part calling for power and flexibility!

Setting scenarios – Commercial boulder gyms 

Whereas the other mentioned areas of setting deliberately invoke some frustration in the process of trying to solve the problem, this obviously is of no or at least lesser importance in commercial setting. Bigger gyms follow the Fontainebleau idea of varied and challenging circuits. In most gyms a grade range is coordinated with designated colours. This grade range might or might not be communicated, instead, a colour chart with recreational, intermediate, advanced, and expert designations is posted. This simple colour coordinated chart will creates easy to follow circuits, and hunting for numbers will become less of an obsession for gym patrons.